This series aims to take readers through the subway stations of Hong Kong. The Hong Kong MTR (Mass Transit Railway), has over 90 major railway stations in all, and is one of the most profitable rail systems in the world. On average, the railway serves about 5 million trips in Hong Kong, daily. Each station represents a microcosm of life. People in Hong Kong visit or live in a particular area because of many factors, including their finances, family needs, convenience, status, profession, geography, etc. In consequence, people coming and going in the stations are often a reflection of what the location provides. This series serves to pay homage to the many walks of life that call Hong Kong home and serves as our Sai Ying Pun MTR Guide.

Trams running through Sai Ying Pun | Image Source: okay.com

Sai Ying Pun: A Neighbourhood with Authentic Hong Kong Charm

Just a few stops from the bustling financial heart, the Sai Ying Pun (西營盤) MTR Station serves as a great spot where old Hong Kong and British charm meets new, bohemian cool. Discover a stop in the city that’s rich in history, bursting with flavour, and full of artistic surprises. While Central and Causeway Bay certainly have their buzz, Sai Ying Pun is where Hong Kong’s hidden gem shops and eats are truly emerging. This vibrant neighborhood, nestled on Hong Kong Island’s Western District, offers an authentic experience that’s “on-the-way” accessible and utterly captivating.

Historic Sai Ying Pun: A Glimpse into Old Hong Kong

Beyond the modern cafes and vibrant street art, Sai Ying Pun history is deeply embedded in its very street names. As you wander, you’ll encounter the famously named First, Second, Third, and High Streets, a nod to Sai Ying Pun’s early colonial development. Sai Ying Pun was one of the earliest suburbs developed in Hong Kong by the incoming British military, as a way to easily mark the gridded, hillside streets.

Uncovering Sai Ying Pun’s Past

Sai Ying Pun Community Complex | Source: Wikipedia

Because of its direct link to the past, you’ll find the oldest colonial style buildings dotted around the Sai Ying Pun neighbourhood with some of the newest developments in Hong Kong. Keep an eye out for other charming Tong Lau (old tenement houses) and traditional signboards that offer glimpses into a bygone era. Some of the restaurants you’ll enter will be in buildings from the early 1900s!

Sai Ying Pun Food Guide: From Traditional Bites to Trendy Cafes

No visit to Hong Kong is complete without great food, and Sai Ying Pun food delivers on every front, from new hip modern establishments, to Hong Kong classics. From generations-old eateries serving classic dishes to chic new cafes, your taste buds are in for a treat.

Cha Chaan Teng and HK Classics: A True Local Taste

Cross Cafe Cha Caan Teng | Source: Miss Tam Chiak

In Sai Ying Pun, you’ll find some of the best spots revered by true locals and incredible cha chaan teng (茶餐廳), or Hong Kong style cafe. These local diners are Hong Kong institutions, offering hearty, affordable meals in a bustling atmosphere. Look for Luen Wah Cafe, which has been operating since 1962 for a quintessential HK experience, where you can grab a warm pineapple bun, a silky smooth milk tea, or a comforting bowl of macaroni soup. Another favourite of mine is the Cross Cafe. Although it looks more like the Hollywood version of what a HK cafe should look like, sometimes you simply want that full force nostalgic vibe.

Dried Seafood Street: A Unique Sensory Journey into Hong Kong Markets

Dozens of Dried Seafood stalls line the Dried Seafood Market in Sai Ying Pun | Source: Zolima Citymag

Take a fascinating detour along Des Voeux Road West, famously known as “Dried Seafood Street.” Don’t worry about missing it, if you’re close by, you’ll be able to smell the street from a mile away. Unless you’re a dried seafood purveyor or a grandma making soup for your kids, you likely won’t buy anything here, however it’s worth seeing as it’s a real living look at Hong Kong’s trading past… that might not exist much longer. The air hums with the distinctive aroma of dried abalone, scallops, and various fish. It’s a truly unique cultural experience, that offers a glimpse into a time-honored Hong Kong tradition while providing incredible photo ops. Don’t leave without grabbing a bottle of local chili sauce from Yu Kwen Yick if you can find it!

Missing Piece Coffee on one of the iconic hilly streets of Sai Ying Pun

High Street’s Hipster Hub: Coffee & International Flavors

Just a short stroll uphill, and High Street Sai Ying Pun transforms into a vibrant hub for the city’sup-and-coming restaurants and trendsetters. Before the pandemic, Sai Ying Pun was chock full of British pubs, however with shifting drinking and dining preferences, Sai Ying pun has transformed into a coffee hotspot in Hong Kong. You’ll find chic coffee shops such as NOC Coffee Co., perfect for a flat white and people-watching, 咖Ah Jeng’s Coffee Club (啡呀唔該) opened by famous Hong Kong 903 Radio DJ “Ah Jeng,” Missing Piece Coffee, one of my favourite spots when I’m in town and even Swedish styled FIKAFABRIKEN for those who want to “fika” in Hong Kong! Interspersed are small, modern eateries serving everything from international flavours to Michelin worthy cuisine. Whether you’re craving a gourmet burger or a sophisticated brunch, High Street has you covered.

Hidden Bars & Speakeasies: Sai Ying Pun’s Nightlife Gems

Beloved Sai Ying Pun Secret Speakeasy Ping Pong 129 | Source: Luxecity guides

As evening descends upon Hong Kong, Sai Ying Pun reveals a burgeoning nightlife scene that’s more laid-back than Central, but just as intriguing. Seek out spots like Ping Pong 129 Gintoneria, a former ping-pong hall turned stylish gin bar, for creative cocktails in a cool, atmospheric setting. Ping Pong 129 isn’t the easiest place to find (hint: look for the red door), but that’s a common theme in Sai Ying Pun. You’ll stumble across cool little bars like CODA • Jazz Kissa (爵士喫茶) while exploring the neighbourhood, places with only enough seats for a handful of patrons. Sai Ying Pun’s nightlife feels a lot like Hong Kong’s version of Japan’s alleyway bars, especially the ones in Shinjuku at Golden Gai.

These hidden gems are perfect for unwinding and slipping anonymously into your night with some friends or strangers looking to do the same.

ArtLane & Street Art: Sai Ying Pun’s TikTok / Instagrammable Corners

Example of some of the amazing wall murals in Sai Ying Pun/ Source: TimeOut Hong Kong

For art lovers and Instagram enthusiasts, Sai Ying Pun ArtLane is an absolute must-visit. Tucked away on streets like Chung Ching Street, Ki Ling Lane, and Shek Chan Lane are outdoor urban art galleries that give the neighbourhood awesome character. Wander through these narrow lanes and discover an ever-evolving collection of murals, graffiti, and street art by both local and international artists. Each corner offers a new perspective and a fresh backdrop for your travel photos. It’s a fantastic way to see how art is breathing new life into the city’s older districts.

Get an Authentic East Meets West look at Hong Kong in Sai Ying Pun!

From local to reknown restaurants, a huge coffee scene, captivating street art and a rich history, Sai Ying Pun offers a microcosm of Hong Kong’s past and diverse appeal. It’s the perfect neighbourhood for new travellers seeking to delve deeper into the city’s authentic charm, away from the more crowded tourist areas to experience what it’s like to live like a local. So, next time you’re in Hong Kong, do yourself a favour: hop on the MTR, alight at Sai Ying Pun MTR Station, and don’t skip this remarkable stop in Hong Kong.